The Falls of the North

Lake Mweru and Lake Bangweulu have yet to be explored as do all the places in between, but a waterfalls tour is an absolute must. However, because of the seasonal variations of the waterfalls, I would only recommend wet season travel for the most intrepid and very well-equipped travellers.

My whirlwind waterfalls tour was done in August when water levels were down, although not at their lowest and what magnificent sights they were. The first set of waterfalls was Mumbuluma just a little way north of Mansa. These are modest falls and the youngest members of our group kept themselves amused jumping off the top of the falls into the pool below.

From there we headed north, running parallel to the Laupula River, heading for Ntumbachushi Falls. Along the road are Mambilima Rapids. Not spectacular water crashing into pools below but water gently bubbling over rocks and boulders. Being right on the main road this is not somewhere that you would plan to camp for the night and neither are the next ones along, Musonda Falls, as this is one of the hydro-stations. In fact, permission is needed from the ZESCO offices on the site to explore the area below the falls. But do take the time to climb down and wander across the rocky river bed. It will give you a much better view of the falls.

Next stop would be the lovely church at Mbereshi. At Mbereshi, it is now time to turn east towards Kawambwa. At this stage, you are still on a good tar road and it is a short drive down to Ntumbachushi Falls. Look out for a stall on the right hand side of the road selling wooden carvings. We were unable to decide whether this was a specific art style or whether it was an example of a bad art style. Ntumbachushi Falls are just a few kilometres off the main road. There is some basic infrastructure (long drop) there and a caretaker from the National Heritage Conservation Commission (NHCC), but it is still camping. The falls themselves are a series of falls with a final curtain of water tumbling down. We spent two nights at these falls and had a chance to explore the cascades above the main curtain of water, and once again, the youngsters found somewhere from which they could lead into the waters below.
Our next two days were spent at Lumangwe/Kabweluma Falls. We pitched our tents at Lumangwe with its basic infrastructure (long drop) and from there made forays out to Kabweluma and Chimpembe Rapids. Lumangwe Falls are very similar to Victoria Falls, albeit smaller and are known as the ‘Victoria Falls of the North’. There the youngsters could not find a place from which to leap but they did manage to tie a rope onto a tree and cross a raging torrent of water to an island! This is not recommended.

Kabweluma Falls, a few kilometres away are, in my opinion, the most perfect and most beautiful waterfalls anywhere. Take the small path from the car park, into dongas, over enormous boulders until one comes out of the bush and before you is the most amazing sight. To use the overused word (by Americans) – awesome!
Chimpembe Rapids are also just a few kilometres away and well worth a visit. To see the main rapids, it is necessary to cross to the island and on the other side of the island are the rapids and there is excellent swimming a little way below the rapids.  Do be careful when crossing the river. I slipped off a rock and was facing upriver so it swept my legs up and did my head under. Thankfully, Quentin Allen had the same priority as me and got those closest to take the two cameras that I was keeping above the water before finally pushing my legs down so that my head could come up. These were my “Falls of the North”.

From there we travelled in the direction of Mporokoso and on to Kasama where we camped at Chishimba Falls, then on to Kapishya Hot Springs and the Chusu Falls and finally to Kundalila Falls, although these are all in the Northern Province.

Infrastructure at all the waterfalls is close to non-existent. In other words, some have long drop toilets. But this is the beauty of them; they are in pristine bush and totally natural surroundings.  Camping is the order of the day and one does need to be completely self sufficient which includes carrying enough fuel, as supply is not guaranteed and ice to keep food and drinks cold. The only thing you are guaranteed to replenish along the way is Mosi, which may or may not be cold.  Many of the falls also require a fair hike on foot to reach them. Once you are there, if time and energy permit, spend some time exploring the area. Climb up to the top or down to the bottom; look for any pools at the bottom where you can have a swim, look at the amazing rock formations around the falls.
And, if you are travelling with a group (more than one vehicle is definitely recommended), enjoy the camaraderie around the campfire at night.

‘A Guide to the Lesser Known Waterfalls’ is a useful book to take along with you as it does give directions and GPS co-ordinates.

Lowdown Magazine Volume 14, No. 11